![\"November](\"http:\/\/kickert.info\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/11\/November032.jpg\" "\\"November")
<\/a><\/p>\n[Mikayla was not impressed.\u00a0 Note: The power lines in the background were From this try I learned a few things:<\/p>\n I swallowed my pride and did some research on the internet on basic kite design.\u00a0 The most helpful site I found was My Best Kite<\/a>.\u00a0 My second attempt at a kite followed the basic instructions for the large diamond dowel kite<\/a>.\u00a0 After that attempt proved to be a success, even in light wind, I made a few adjustment and built Kite #3.\u00a0 Here is how I did it:<\/p>\n Step #1 \u2013 Get your plastic<\/strong><\/p>\n I started with a large strip of black plastic sheeting I had laying around, but you could easily use a large garbage bag and get the same results.\u00a0 I cut it to roughly 38″ x 38″ to work with the 36″ x 3\/16″ dowels I got at my local superstore.<\/p>\n Step #2 \u2013 Create your vertical pocket<\/strong><\/p>\n I used duck tape just for durability.\u00a0 I am sure a lighter tape would work fine too, but I have had no problems with the great grey miracle.\u00a0 All I did was take a 4″ section and double it over the top center of the plastic (I had a nice crease that made things easier to line up).\u00a0 I then folded that down and used two smaller strips to secure it in place.<\/p>\n I then put the dowel rod (technically called a “spar”) in the top pocket and then moved to the bottom. I trimmed the plastic to make it the right height, then created a matching pocket that allowed the dowel to pull tight, but not enough to bow it.<\/p>\n Step #3 \u2013 Prep the Horizontal Spar<\/strong><\/p>\n Find the center of your horizontal spar and mark it.\u00a0 Then mark your vertical spar 6″ down from the top.\u00a0 These will form the support for your kite.\u00a0 There are several ways you can affix them together.\u00a0 You can attach a tie point (as seen on the website) , you can simply tape them together (that is what I did for Kite #2 and it worked fine) or you can create tunnel pockets on the kite.\u00a0 For this design I tried the later.<\/p>\n To do it, simply cut a 2-3″ inch strip of duck tape, flip it over, then attach a smaller strip down the middle.\u00a0 Place that at the 6″ point for the horizontal spar.\u00a0 Use additional tape if you so desire.<\/p>\n After completing the kite, I decided use a vertical tunnel pocket as well and installed it after the fact a few inches below the horizontal pocket.\u00a0 It would certainly make sense to do that at this stage as well.\u00a0 You can see a picture of it down in Step #5<\/p>\n [NOTE: See Update below for tips on improving this process.]<\/p>\n Step #4 \u2013 Create the horizontal pockets and bow mechanism<\/strong><\/p>\n In order for a kite to be stable while it flies, it needs to deflect the wind.\u00a0 The easiest way to do this is to create a bow in the kite.\u00a0 For Kite #2 I followed the instructions on the internet<\/a> and used notches and a toggle.\u00a0 It worked fine, but took a good bit of time to get right and was not adjustable.\u00a0 For attempt #3, I decided to try another approach and use a bow line attached to the corner pockets.\u00a0 I am sure there are multiple ways of doing this but here is a method that worked for me.<\/p>\n Begin by laying out your horizontal pockets just like you did the vertical ones by cutting the plastic so you have a small over lap and doubling up duck tape.\u00a0 Go ahead and crease it so you know where they will be when they are complete.\u00a0 Again, you want the spar to be tight, but not already flexing.\u00a0 Then install a tie off point.\u00a0 I used some fiber tape that was folded up in the middle.\u00a0 Then you can secure the pocket like normal.\u00a0 [Note: You want to keep the loop a bit large so you can slip the spar in under it into the pocket.]<\/p>\n Step #5 \u2013 Secure the Edges<\/strong><\/p>\n At this point your kite should be coming together.\u00a0 Go ahead and install both spars.\u00a0 You should be seeing lines of tension in the shape of a diamond.<\/p>\n The internet instructions have you cut out the kite design first, but I have found it is much easier to make your cuts at this stage of the build.\u00a0 This way your kite is cut exactly along your points of tension instead of loosely fitting your design.<\/p>\n To secure the edges take a long strip of clear packing tape and affix it from spar pocket to spar pocket.\u00a0 You will want the tape to run right next to the end of the spars.\u00a0 You can simply tape over the folded plastic.\u00a0 Once this is done, all you need to do is cut along the center of the tape.\u00a0 Do this for all four edges.<\/p>\n Step #6 \u2013 Attach your Bow Line<\/strong><\/p>\n We are now ready to give our kite some shape.\u00a0 Cut a long piece of cotton twine about 45″.\u00a0 Thread each end through the tab you created on the corner pocket and tie it with a prusik knot.\u00a0 This will be your bow line.<\/p>\n A Quick Note about Knots<\/strong><\/p>\n Knowing various knots sure can help the kite making process.\u00a0 If you are not familiar with ropes and knots, this may be a bit difficult.\u00a0 I have found many of the techniques used here can be side stepped with some creative thinking.\u00a0 For instance, in many cases you can simply tie loops in in your line and attach things together with a paper clip or a fishing snap<\/a>.\u00a0 For this whole project I used prusik knots because they are relatively easy, secure and adjustable.\u00a0 Prusiks are generally tied using a loop of cord that is wrapped through itself (see example here<\/a>).\u00a0 If you wish, you can make a prusik from a small loop then tie the end of your cord to the “tail loop.”\u00a0 However, you can also tie a prusik from a single line and then secure it with a half hitch.\u00a0 That is what I have done for my kite.\u00a0 I have recorded a video on how to tie a prusik knot on the end of a line<\/a>.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n The prussic knot will allow you to adjust the tension on the bow line because as a friction knot, you can slide it into place and it will remain there.\u00a0 Ideally, you want your horizontal spar to bow about 3″ (that is the distance from deepest part of the spar to the bow line.)<\/p>\n Step #7 \u2013 Attach the Bridle<\/strong><\/p>\n From the center of your kite measure 6″ in both directions and mark it on your horizontal spar.\u00a0 Cut a small hole in the plastic so you can thread some line through.\u00a0 Cut about 20-24″ of line and thread it through bottom of your kite.\u00a0 Secure line with several knots (and perhaps a bit of wood glue like I did).\u00a0 When this line is finished, you should be able to pull it away from the body of the kite and it be about 6″ to the apex.\u00a0 Adjust your knots and line if you need to.<\/p>\n Measure up 12″ from the bottom of you kite and cut a similar hole.\u00a0 Attach a 36″ piece of line to the vertical spar.\u00a0 These three points will form the bridle of your kite.<\/p>\n Now here is where I got fancy.\u00a0 Instead of just tying the lines together to form a three-line bridle, I decided to incorporate prusik knots into the design so I could adjust things on the fly.\u00a0 Using a short bit of line, I tied a prusik to the horizontal line and then tied another prusik to the vertical line.\u00a0 This allowed me shift the focal point of the bridle side to side and forward and back.\u00a0 This gave me plenty of opportunity to experiment with optimal flying configuration and to adjust for inconsistencies in weight and\/or balance.<\/p>\n If you don’t want to get fancy, just tie thing together so the apex of the pyramid from your lines is directly over the horizontal spar (perhaps an inch forward if you want) and about 6″ off the kite body.\u00a0 Remember to include a way to attach your line.\u00a0 For my design, I simply added a loop to the end of the long vertical line.<\/p>\n
\nnever a worry since the kite never made it more than 4′ off the ground.<\/em>]<\/small><\/p>\n\n
<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a> [Sorry for the blurry pictures, but I think you get the point<\/em>.]<\/small><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n